Fall 2006

Serves 4-6

Setup and Preparation:

4-8 each pieces of Venison (Deer, Elk or Antelope) back strap or tenderloin. Approximately 3-4oz. each

Marinade

(suitable for grilled or sautéed venison, wild boar, squirrel and rabbit)
1 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoons freshly ground black or white pepper (combination of both is great)
2 tablespoons dry red wine (Cabernet, Merlot, Burgundy, etc.)
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
4 juniper berries, chopped finely
1 bay leaf, crumbled
1 sprig of fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried or rubbed thyme
1 sage leaf, minced fine or pinch of dried sage
1 teaspoons fresh parsley or ½ teaspoon dried parsley leaves
1 garlic clove, finely minced
1 minced shallot or 1 tablespoon  minced onion
½ teaspoon Dijon or regular prepared mustard
3  tablespoons  salad or olive oil

Mix the above ingredients for the marinade. Dip medallions or steaks on both sides and pour any remaining marinade over. A marinade should coat, provide taste enhancement and be compatible with the main item, in this case venison. It does not have to be swimming in liquid, just coated. Marinate at least an hour, but it is ok to leave for several hours or overnight.

Venison Medallions

1/4 cup oil (vegetable, olive, safflower, peanut or any blended vegetable oil)
1 heavy bottomed sauté or frying pan.
Salt and pepper as needed, to taste

Method:

1. Place the pan on the flame or heat source, allowing it to get very hot for 1-3 minutes. Because of the moisture in the meat, it is important to build up the heat in the pan to sustain a proper temperature to sear the medallions properly.

2. Add the oil to the smoking hot pan and immediately add the medallions, distributing the meat evenly across the bottom of the pan. The pan size is important here. Too small and the meat will not brown and begin to steam up and boil. Too large of a pan, and it will scorch and ruin the precious drippings, so important to fortify the taste of the preparation.

3. Wait until you see blood droplets forming on the top surface of the meat before turning. Use a flat offset spatula to turn the medallions and cook briefly on the second side. Three fourths of the cooking is done on the first side, much less time is required on
the other. Prime cuts of properly handled and processed wild game are characteristically lean and are best eaten medium rare to rare.

4. Transfer medallions to a side plate and immediately add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of either brown venison stock or dry wine, red or white to deglaze the pan. Deglazing simply means to swirl around a liquid while scraping the accumulated caramelize bits of meat and fat from the bottom of the pan. If it accidentally overly reduces, just add a bit of water. Ideally, you should have just enough of this rich essence to glaze or coat the medallions. This is how chefs often make pan sauces in a professional kitchen or at camp.

Making a finished sauce as follows, brings this dish to a higher level of excellence.

Wine Merchant Pan Sauce

(Best if prepared ahead of time or day before)

Mix in a pan and roast until well-browned:
1 quart  venison bones and trimmings, cut or chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1  tablespoon  of vegetable oil

Mix the following into the rendered drippings in the pan of bones and brown a second time:
1 cup onions, diced into ½ inch pieces
1/2 cup celery, diced into ½ inch pieces
1/2 cup carrots, diced into ½ inch pieces

After vegetables have browned, mix into the bones and browned vegetables:
2  tablespoons tomato paste or 1/4 cup tomato puree

Brown the bones, vegetables and tomato mixture a third time to briefly “pince” ("pin-SAY") or cook out the raw tomato taste, adding depth of flavor. Careful as the preparation can burn easily after the tomato is added.

Note: The bones may be cut with a hand saw or chopped with a cleaver or even a clean camp axe. Roasting the bones and then simmering them will yield a wonderful essence that is the basis for any quality meat dish.

Deglaze the roast pan of any encrusted elements by adding two cups of dry red wine and one cup of sweet red port wine,  or you may substitute a dry white wine for the port. Scrape up the caramelized elements with a wooden spoon until they are dissolved in the wine, add 1 bay leaf and a sprig of thyme and parsley. Again, dried thyme and parsley may be substituted for the fresh herbs. Transfer the bones and liquid to a sauce or stock pot large enough to accommodate the ingredients. Add enough water to just cover the bones.

Melt 2 oz. or half a stick of butter in a small pan and combine with an equal amount of flour, brown lightly. Add this butter and flour mixture (called a roux) and simmer gently for several hours (3 to 8 hours, or slowly overnight), replenishing the water to keep the mixture hydrated. Add 1 teaspoon of whole black peppercorns during the last hour of cooking. Strain and then reduce the sauce over heat to about two cups.


Potato, Celeriac and Apple Gratin

Yields a wonderful casserole for 4-8 portions, suitable to serve with Venison, Boar, Turkey, Waterfowl or upland game birds.

3 large potatoes, peeled and sliced thin
1 Granny Smith or apple variety of choice, peeled and sliced thin
1 small root celery or Celeriac, peeled and slice thin
3 cups heavy cream (may substitute non-fat, unsweetened evaporated milk for special diets)
½ teaspoon ground white pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
1 pinch ground nutmeg

1  tablespoon  whole butter
2  tablespoons  grated Swiss, Fontina, Monterey Jack, Mozzarella or any semi soft cheese
2  tablespoons  grated Parmesan or Asiago

Method for Gratin:

1. Rub and coat the inside of a casserole or gratin dish with the butter.
2. In a large bowl, combine the seasonings with the cream and soft cheese.
3. Add the potato, apple and celeriac to this mixture as you slice it to keep the vegetables and apple from oxidizing or turning brown.
4. Mix well and add the entire mixture to the casserole dish, pressing the solid ingredients down flat. Cover with foil and bake at 300° F for one hour. Uncover, sprinkle with the Parmesan or Asiago and turn the oven up to 425 degrees.
5. Allow the top of the gratin to become golden brown and remove from oven.

Woodland Oyster Mushrooms

Learning to identify wild fungus varieties rewards the hunter with a functional and exquisite garnishes for game dishes. Oyster mushrooms can be found throughout the growing season and there are many other types abundant in the Midwest. The Audubon Societies Field Guide to Wild Mushrooms is an excellent reference and small enough to carry in your hunting pack in the field. Otherwise, most grocery stores carry Oyster Mushrooms at all times of the year.

½ lb Oyster Mushrooms (or more if available) cut into segments or small clusters
3 oz Melted butter
1 whole beaten egg
1 teaspoon fresh or dried chopped parsley
½ cup white bread crumbs or Japanese "Panko" (plain white bread works fine, chopped in food processor or simply by hand)

Method for Mushrooms:

Add the butter to a sauté pan over low heat. Dip the mushrooms into the beaten egg with parsley, then dredge lightly in bread crumbs on each side. Add to the pan and sauté until golden brown, turn and repeat the browning on the second side. At this point squeeze the juice of half a lemon over the mushrooms and season to taste with salt and pepper. Drain on paper towel and serve.

Leek Crisps

1 leek, white and light green parts, cut into fine julienne
1 teaspoons cornstarch
Vegetable oil for frying

Heat vegetable oil to approximately 350 degrees. Dust the leeks with cornstarch and quickly fry until light and crispy. Drain on paper towel and season with salt and pepper.

Final note

Make the sauce and marinate the venison ahead of time.
The leeks, mushrooms and gratin should then be prepared first and kept in a warm place. Last step is to cook the Venison and plate the dish.

Now all this may seem like a lot of work, but if you can chase a 1/16 " growth ring down a yew or Osage stave, you can certainly do this. I know the results will be worth the extra effort.