Spring 2007 Wild Turkey Cutlets, Creamed Morels, Fiddle Heads, Early Spring Asparagus and Natural Jus Lie’ by Dan Hugelier, Certified Master Chef

Wild Turkey Cutlets
Makes 4 servings

4 ea. 4-5 oz. ½" thick slices of the breast.

Note: The narrow end cuts near the pointed end of the breast may be butterflied. Make a cut halfway thru, then the next cut all the way thru and slightly pound to flatten.

1½  teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon  fresh sage leaves, minced finely (may substitute ½ teaspoon dried rubbed sage)
½ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves minced finely (may substitute ½ teaspoon dried thyme)
3/4 cup All Purpose flour
2 ea. whole eggs
1 cup milk
1½ cup dried breadcrumbs (panko or Japanese white breadcrumbs are excellent)
1 cup vegetable oil for shallow frying

Method:
Season the turkey on both sides to taste. It is important to add enough salt and spices here. You may prefer a bit more than indicated. Allow your own diet restrictions and preferences to direct you with common sense for the amount of seasoning.

Mix the eggs and the milk thoroughly with a fork or wire whip to make "egg wash."
Organize two plates, one with the flour and one with the breadcrumbs, then put the bowl of egg wash between them. Bread the cutlets buy dredging first into the flour, coating well, then shaking off the excess. Dip the cutlet into the egg wash, coating thoroughly, then finally dredge into the breadcrumbs and press slightly to adhere the crumbs to the cutlet. Place on plate or tray in a single layer.

At service time, heat the oil in a cast iron skillet or sauté-frying pan. Add the cutlets and allow to cook golden brown over medium heat, turn and lightly brown the other side. The heat must be moderate to allow the cutlet to cook inside properly. On the other hand, don’t put them into a cool pan or the cutlets will absorb fat needlessly. The temperature of the fat in the pan should be about 325 degrees Fahrenheit.

Remove the cutlets and transfer to a baking sheet to keep warm until serving.

Morel Mushroom Stew

2 cups fresh morels, split in half, washed and drained well.
2 ea. shallots minced finely (substitute 3 tablespoons minced onion)
4 Tbsp melted, unsalted butter
1 ea lemon, juiced
1 oz Brandy or Cognac
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 Tbsp Madeira or dry Sherry
1 cup heavy cream (substitute unsweetened evaporated milk)
1 ea Bay leaf
½ teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper, freshly milled if possible
pinch ground nutmeg and cayenne pepper

Method for the Morel Stew

Preheat a skillet or sauté pan large enough to accommodate the mushrooms in one even layer. When it is hot enough to provide a good sizzle, coat the mushrooms and introduce them to the hot pan. Two things are important here; first the pan has to be the right size and secondly, the pan must be hot. This will allow the mushrooms to sauté and not just boil or steam without flavor. It is this light browning of the mushrooms that will add significantly to the taste of the dish.

Sauté the mushrooms for about 2 minutes and add the lemon juice, Brandy or Cognac and wines.
Add salt, pepper and nutmeg.

Now, if you’re quick on the draw you can have ready a lighter or match and ignite the liquor in the pan to flambé’. This of course is not necessary, but it will impress your guests if you avoid catching yourself on fire-- careful here.

Add the bay leaf and cream or evaporated milk. Simmer, allowing the mixture to reduce slightly to thicken the cream and coat the mushrooms. Leave them somewhat creamy and try not to over reduce. If this happens, simply add a little water or stock to bring them back to proper consistency. Remove the bay leaf and keep warm, covered for service.

At service time, spoon the morel stew into the center of the plate, cut the turkey cutlets with a sharp knife and arrange on top of the stew with vegetables. Surround the cutlet and vegetables with a ribbon of Jus Lie’.

Asparagus
1 dozen medium-sized asparagus spears, lightly peel the stems with a potato peeler
1 quart boiling water with ½ teaspoon salt added
1 teaspoon whole, unsalted butter
salt, ground white pepper and a pinch of cayenne to taste

Peas
½ pound small fresh sugar peas shelled or snap peas
1 quart boiling water with ½ teaspoon salt added
1 teaspoon whole unsalted butter
salt, ground white pepper and a pinch of cayenne to taste

Fiddle Head Fern Sprouts
2 dozen wild fern sprouts
1 quart boiling water with ½ teaspoon salt added
1 teaspoon whole unsalted butter
salt, ground white pepper and a pinch of cayenne to taste

Method for the vegetables

The same pot of water may be used for the asparagus, peas and fiddle heads. Blanch each vegetable in rapidly boiling water for about 2 minutes, then shock or refresh in cold ice water to stop them cooking. Drain. Reheat with butter and season at service time.

It is not absolutely necessary to blanch and shock vegetables. However, taking the time to do this does allow you to get things set up prior to dinner and “sets” the color of the vegetables, keeping them a bright vibrant green color. When the chlorophyll breaks down the green color fades and looks unappetizing. This is why chefs will blanch and shock vegetables, then reheat just before being served; it assures the guests will receive the food hot and looking beautiful.

Turkey Jus Lie’

Jus Lie’ is the natural essence or juice from roasted bones made into stock with aromatics, then reduced to slightly thicken it. Lie’ means to "slightly thicken" and this also could be accomplished with the addition of a little starch solution; arrowroot or cornstarch work fine. Roux could also be used, but a sauce thickened with roux lacks the clarity and lightness which works so well with this dish.

2 to 3 quarts chopped bones, trimmings, sinew and cartilage from wild turkey carcass
2 Tbsp oil or butter
1 teaspoon salt
½ lb carrots, split and cut into 1" pieces
½ lb parsnips, split and cut into 1" pieces
4 ea stalks celery, cut into 1" pieces
2 cups coarsely chopped onion
1/4 cup tomato paste or 1 cup fresh tomato, seeded and chopped coarse
1 cup dry white wine
1 lemon, juiced

1 sachet (made from a small piece of cheesecloth or coffee filter with 1 Tbsp black peppercorns, 3 sprigs of thyme, 2 bay leaves and ½ cup flat leaf parsley and stems)

Method for Jus Lie'

Place bones and trimmings in large roast pan with oil or butter. Lightly season with salt. Roast at 350 degrees F, until nicely browned all over. Stir occasionally to maximize browning on every surface of the bones and trim. The bones should start to "brulee’" or scorch around the edges, in other words, they will be very well browned.

Add the vegetables and stir well. Brown again, caramelizing the vegetables. Deglaze the pan with the wine, add the tomato. Brown again. This stage is called “Pince” in French and it simply means to brown the tomato product. Careful here as the tomato will brown more quickly than the bones or vegetables did during the first stages of the preparation.

Transfer the contents of the roasting pan to a stockpot and add enough water to just cover the bones and other ingredients. Simmer gently for 4-6 hours and then strain.

Reduce the stock to one fourth its original volume, taste, adjust salt and add lemon juice. This should yield about a quart of rich Jus. You can reduce it further to concentrate the flavor or thicken it slightly with a tablespoon of powdered arrowroot dissolved in a couple tablespoons of cold water. Add this to the simmering Jus and cook for ten minutes.


Potato and Turkey Hash
with Mushroom Sauce and Poached Egg
Makes 4 servings

Method for salt-preserved turkey, or "confit"

2 ea thighs and legs from wild turkey, bone in
kosher or sea salt to taste
1 ea crumbled bay leaf
6 ea chopped Juniper berries (may substitute a shot of gin)
1 teaspoon cracked black peppercorns
1 quart vegetable oil or rendered fat from duck or geese
(Fat can be rendered by placing it in a pan and covering with water, then simmering slowly until all the water is evaporated, strain and cool until needed)
One clove of minced garlic can be added if desired. This gives it a taste similar to corned beef.

Method for Confit

Pour a good amount of salt onto a large plate. Dredge the turkey pieces on all sides until thoroughly coated with the salt. Place pieces of turkey into a large glass or non-corrosive bowl, pan or container. Sprinkle the bay leaf, peppercorns and juniper berries over the turkey pieces.
 
Cover with plastic wrap and weight down with a plate, board or whatever clean item is handy. Place a stack of plates or additional weight on top to help press out moisture. Refrigerate for 2-3 days (two days for a Jake or hen, 3 days for a larger gobbler). Turn and re-distribute the pieces after 1 day to ensure even curing.

After curing, rinse the pieces, dry and submerge in oil in a large pot. The oil should cover all of the turkey. Cook at the lowest possible simmer for 3-4 hours or until the meat is fork tender. Remove with tongs or slotted spoon, drain well and cool.

Turkey Hash
Makes 4 servings

2 cups cooked wild turkey meat or confit of wild turkey, chopped coarsely
2 cups potatoes, cooked in skins until tender, peeled and chopped
1 cup diced onions
1 Tbsp butter or oil
1/4 cup chopped fresh, flat leaf parsley
½ teaspoon fresh milled black or white pepper
1 teaspoon Coleman's dry English mustard
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Method

Sauté the onion in butter or oil until tender without browning. Combine cooked turkey, potato and onion in bowl with parsley, cayenne, fresh milled black pepper and dry mustard. Mix well.

Divide into four equal portions and form into large patties. Brown over low to medium heat in a little butter and turn to brown the other side warming thoroughly. Place on plates and keep warm in low oven while poaching eggs.
Serve with mushroom sauce.

Brown Mushroom Sauce
(This is a classic “Hunters” Sauce or Sauce “Chausseur”. It is also wonderful with Pheasant, Woodcock, Grouse, and Boar)

2 cups sliced or quartered button mushrooms or wild mushrooms of your choice
1/4 cup minced shallots or white onion
2 Tbsp butter, melted
1 Tbsp tomato paste
1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon or ½ teaspoon dried tarragon leaves
½ cup dry white wine
1 lemon, juiced
½ teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
2 cups turkey jus lie', thickened with arrowroot, roux or cornstarch.

Method for Mushroom Sauce

Preheat a sauté pan large enough to accommodate the mushrooms. Drizzle the melted butter over the sliced mushrooms and put them into the pre-heated pan. Sauté until golden brown. Add the lemon juice, salt, pepper and tarragon. Add the tomato, mix well and “pince” or brown the tomato slightly. Add the jus lie' (thickened slightly, and by the way, it’s ok to use roux on this one!)

Simmer for five minutes, taste and adjust seasoning.

Poached Eggs

4  eggs, one per person or more if desired
1 quart boiling water
2 Tbsp white vinegar
1 teaspoon salt

Method for Poached Eggs

The technique for making poached eggs is simple. Crack the eggs into a pot of simmering water seasoned with the vinegar and salt. The vinegar serves to help coagulate the whites which are protein rich and react with the acid from the vinegar. The vinegar and salt provide a seasoning profile which is a pleasant contrast with the rich egg yolk.

Cook the eggs until the whites turn solid white and are no longer translucent, about 3-4 minutes.
Remove with a slotted spoon and place on top of each portion of Wild Turkey Hash.